Part Three – Reflection of Mass Tourism in Bali with Toyo University Students
Activities of the Fifth Day – September 6, 2024
The next trip was for participants to visit Lake Tamblingan and Alas Mertajati Forest. The students gain experience riding a boat and trekking in the forest. A discussion session was held at Bale Melajah Lake Tamblingan with members of BRASTI (Baga Raksa Alas Mertajati) and Community Elders. The discussion session discussed the struggle of the Tamblingan indigenous people to reclaim their customary forest which currently still has the status of a state forest. Alas Mertajati, which has an area of around 1,300 hectares, is part of the Batukau Nature Reserve area. This area is managed by the Natural Resources Conservation Center as the Lake Buyan and Lake Tamblingan Nature Tourism Park. The Batukau Nature Reserve, which has an area of around 16,000 hectares, supplies 1/3 of Bali’s water needs. Unfortunately, after the Alas Mertajati area was designated as a TWA (Nature Tourism Gardens), the forest experienced degradation, there was a lot of logging and illegal hunting. Some endemic trees, flora, and animals have become extinct, such as the ijah or black monkey. In addition, because of its TWA status, many tourists come and do tourism activities such as camping and pre-wedding photos, even though this forest area is an area that is very sacred to the Dalem Tamblingan Indigenous Community. That is the basis for fighting for the return of the forest status to customary forest so that efforts to preserve the Alas Mertajati forest as a source of life can be carried out optimally.
Day Six Activities – September 7, 2024
Jatiluwih is an area famous for its rice terraces. The students tracked the rice fields accompanied by two local guides. One of the guides, Mr. Sweden, is one of the pioneers of ecotourism activities in Jatiluwih Village. Participants were introduced to the subak system and rituals that must be carried out by farmers from before planting to after the rice harvest. There are 15 rituals carried out by farmers in Jatiluwih, including:
- Mapag Toya: A ceremony to collect water from a water source in preparation for planting rice. The purpose of this ceremony is to ask God to bless them with enough water for the needs of working on their rice fields.
- Mungkah Pratiwi: A ceremony before starting work in the rice fields, carried out by farmers when they start cultivating or irrigating their rice fields.
- Ngurit Semaian: A ceremony held when farmers start sowing or making rice seeds. The purpose of this ceremony is to ask that the rice seeds made can grow and produce good rice.
- Nuasen: A ceremony held when farmers are about to start planting rice in the rice fields. The purpose of this ceremony is to announce that farmers will start planting their rice and to ask Dewi Sri to be pleased to melinggih or reside in the sanggah pengalapan and protect and maintain the farmers’ rice plants so that they can grow well and fertility.
- Mubuhin: This ceremony is held after farmers plant rice.
- Ngerorasin: After the rice is 12 days old, this ceremony is held to ask that the rice plants can grow well.
- Nangluk Merana: The ceremony is held after 1 month of planting rice so that the subaks in Jatiluwih Village do not experience pests and diseases of the rice plants.
- Nipatin: This ceremony is held when the rice is one month and seven days old (42 days).
- Nyepi: After the rice has grown for 42 days, the subak community then simultaneously holds a period of silence. The community is not allowed to do any activities in the rice field area so that it is hoped that negative energy can be removed.
- Ngatapang: This ceremony is held after the rice is 2 months old for good rice development.
- Mabiu Kukung: Ceremony when the rice is 3 months old, asking for an abundant rice harvest.
- Ngusaba: Ceremony held before the harvest so that an abundant harvest can be given.
- Harvest: Ceremony addressed to Dewi Nini/Dewi Sri to express gratitude for the harvest obtained and the planting process that has gone well.
- Mantenin: Ceremony held when the rice has been stored in the barn, expressing gratitude because the rice has been stored well.
- Nedunan padi: After the rice has been in the barn for 3 days, the rice is lowered a little and a yadnya ceremony is performed as a symbol so that the rice does not run out quickly.
The ritual system carried out by the krama subak (subak members) is a form of application of the Tri Hita Karana philosophy. In Jatiluwih itself, there are two types of rice planted, namely local/Balinese rice (red sandalwood rice) and hybrid rice. Usually red rice is planted in December to January while hybrid rice is planted in July. Red rice has become a habit of the Jatiluwih community and its existence is highly protected. If this red rice disappears, the series of history and culture of the Jatiluwih community will also disappear. This red rice is still harvested manually using a traditional tool called Ani-ani. In one of the farmer’s huts, students are also introduced to traditional tools for plowing rice fields, namely tenggala. The main ritual places of the krama subak Jatiluwih include the catu studio in each rice field, Pelinggih Ulun Empelan which is located at the water source, Bedugul Temple and Ulun Suwi Temple. In addition to the temples, the community also performs rituals at Ulun Danu Beratan Temple, Ulun Danu Batur Temple, and routinely performs pekelem at Lake Tamblingan. The community believes that the source of water obtained to irrigate the rice fields comes from lake water. One of the springs believed to come from Lake Tamblingan is the Kelebusan Lis.
Farmers must comply with the planting rules stated in the awig-awig and perarem. The rice planting process must be carried out simultaneously and farmers are only given a deadline of 2 weeks to plant. This is done to avoid major losses from crop failure due to pest attacks. The community also believes that if the rice fields are attacked by pests such as rats, then there is a mistake made by the farmer.
After exploring the rice fields, the students were then directed to one of the famous local attractions in Jatiluwih, namely the Lazy River. In addition to enjoying the view of the rice fields, Mount Batukaru and the clean river atmosphere, visitors can also try water tubing and relax on tires. The next activity was to visit Mr. Suweden’s homestay and try local food such as jukut ares and kecombrang chili sauce and red rice. After lunch, the participants had a short discussion with Mr. Suweden. Participants were interested in the impacts received by Jatiluwih after receiving recognition from UNESCO. According to Mr. Suweden, of course the impact felt is an increase in income from tourist visits, but on the other hand there are also concerns regarding land conversion and reduced water discharge. In addition, income from tourist visits is still very small, felt by farmers because the percentage for subak is only around 25% (the percentage obtained has been deducted for operational management, to be given to the Tabanan Regency government, Jatiluwih Traditional Village, Gunungsari Traditional Village, and Jatiluwih Service Village). From this percentage, it is divided back into 7 subaks in Jatiluwih so that each subak only gets around 3-4%. This was complained about by the farmers, even though these farmers are the spearheads in preserving subak in Jatiluwih. In addition, participants also asked about farmer regeneration and the interest of young people in farming. Based on Mr. Suweden’s explanation, the interest of the younger generation in farming has indeed decreased, however, children are still taught to farm so that when they do not get jobs in the city, they can still return to the village. Children who go to school outside the village usually also help their families in the fields when they are on school holidays, so farming knowledge can still be passed on to the next generation. Although their main job is a doctor, they still have farming knowledge. Ownership of rice fields and land in Jatiluwih is still dominated by local people, although some rice fields have been converted into lodging and restaurants. Land conversion has occurred by almost 30% and some rice fields have also experienced drought so that they cannot be used again. After the discussion, the participants then enjoyed the beauty of the Yeh Ho waterfall.
Still continuing on Day Seven and Eight.